Runway

Sergio Hudson Spring Collection

Sergio Hudson 2025

Inspired by Valley of the Dolls

It’s a bit unsettling to consider, but today’s generation of young people is missing out on many simple life pleasures, like the joy of stumbling upon old movies on cable television. “When we millennials were young, we would just sit at home and watch whatever old movies came on TV,” reminisces designer Sergio Hudson. It’s true: streaming services today make selecting a film much easier, but there’s less spontaneity in the experience and fewer chances to discover hidden gems you might not have chosen otherwise. One such gem, the 1967 film Valley of the Dolls, which chronicles the rise and fall of three women in show business, served as the main inspiration for Hudson’s new spring collection. “I loved that movie—I used to watch it every time it came on,” he says. “It’s so campy!”

Sergio Hudson Collection

If there’s one aesthetic Hudson borrowed from the cult classic, it’s certainly the color palette. The original costumes, set against a dreamy pastel backdrop, inspired Hudson to apply the same sugary hues to his signature tailored suits, knit dresses, and evening gowns. “I’ve been in a dark place this year, so the color really lifted me,” he shares. His impeccably cut double-breasted suits came in delightful shades of lilac and robin’s egg blue. The sleeves were given a more relaxed, gathered silhouette, adding an element of playfulness and ease. “I wanted to offer some easier jackets because mine are always so cinched and structured,” Hudson explains. His laid-back evening pieces, such as a knit tee paired with a high-waisted silk skirt in butter yellow, looked almost good enough to eat.

Hudson also ventured into new territory with his debut in menswear. “I’m always dressing women, and their husbands ask, ‘When are you making clothes for me?’ I’ve been hearing that for years,” Hudson notes. His menswear line felt perfectly in sync with his womenswear: think pale pink single-breasted suits, mint green draped tops, and navy sequin tees—definitely not your average menswear pieces. “I wanted to present something new and fresh and show that we have range,” he adds.

Embracing the 1960s vibe of Valley of the Dolls, Hudson also experimented with more retro silhouettes, another first for him. This was evident in the use of Peter Pan collars and capped sleeves on a double-breasted buttoned dress (evoking Mad Men) or a floor-length sequin gown. Although Hudson admits he’s not typically a fan of shimmer, he knew that a nod to the Dolls required a bit of sparkle. (Don’t miss the white long-sleeve sequin gown worn by ’90s supermodel Veronica Webb.) “I’m more of a matte fabric person,” he admits. “I like to call this minimal—but grand.”

It’s a bit unsettling to consider, but today’s generation of young people is missing out on many simple life pleasures, like the joy of stumbling upon old movies on cable television. “When we millennials were young, we would just sit at home and watch whatever old movies came on TV,” reminisces designer Sergio Hudson. It’s true: streaming services today make selecting a film much easier, but there’s less spontaneity in the experience and fewer chances to discover hidden gems you might not have chosen otherwise. One such gem, the 1967 film Valley of the Dolls, which chronicles the rise and fall of three women in show business, served as the main inspiration for Hudson’s new spring collection. “I loved that movie—I used to watch it every time it came on,” he says. “It’s so campy!”

If there’s one aesthetic Hudson borrowed from the cult classic, it’s certainly the color palette. The original costumes, set against a dreamy pastel backdrop, inspired Hudson to apply the same sugary hues to his signature tailored suits, knit dresses, and evening gowns. “I’ve been in a dark place this year, so the color really lifted me,” he shares. His impeccably cut double-breasted suits came in delightful shades of lilac and robin’s egg blue. The sleeves were given a more relaxed, gathered silhouette, adding an element of playfulness and ease. “I wanted to offer some easier jackets because mine are always so cinched and structured,” Hudson explains. His laid-back evening pieces, such as a knit tee paired with a high-waisted silk skirt in butter yellow, looked almost good enough to eat.

Hudson also ventured into new territory with his debut in menswear. “I’m always dressing women, and their husbands ask, ‘When are you making clothes for me?’ I’ve been hearing that for years,” Hudson notes. His menswear line felt perfectly in sync with his womenswear: think pale pink single-breasted suits, mint green draped tops, and navy sequin tees—definitely not your average menswear pieces. “I wanted to present something new and fresh and show that we have range,” he adds.

Embracing the 1960s vibe of Valley of the Dolls, Hudson also experimented with more retro silhouettes, another first for him. This was evident in the use of Peter Pan collars and capped sleeves on a double-breasted buttoned dress (evoking Mad Men) or a floor-length sequin gown. Although Hudson admits he’s not typically a fan of shimmer, he knew that a nod to the Dolls required a bit of sparkle. (Don’t miss the white long-sleeve sequin gown worn by ’90s supermodel Veronica Webb.) “I’m more of a matte fabric person,” he admits. “I like to call this minimal—but grand.

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