Runway

Fall 2024 Menswear Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton

The day after Pharrell Williams’s inaugural presentation for Louis Vuitton, a spectacular show on Pont Neuf in June, his design studio immediately embarked on crafting this new collection. As the pieces come together, it becomes evident that Williams is guiding the fashion house on a captivating journey, possibly crossing oceans. The four Louis Vuitton trunks showcased on the runway tonight strongly suggest he is still en route to a destination, yet for the fall of ’24, his LV caravan ventures into familiar territory for Williams: the USA and its rich heritage of Western wear and workwear.

In a post-show conversation with the press, Williams remarked, “When you see portrayals of cowboys, you typically see only a few versions. You never really get to see what some of the original cowboys looked like. They looked like us, they looked like me. They looked Black. They looked Native American.”

The indigenous peoples of what later became the United States were not only respected but also actively involved in tonight’s presentation, contributing to accessories with hand-painted designs and beautiful desert flower embroideries on various Speedy bags. The opening and closing music, co-composed by Williams and Lakota artist “Hokie” Clairmont, was performed by the Native Voices of Resistance group, who, alongside models and the studio team, took a bow with Williams at the conclusion.

Addressing the complexities of American history during a time of contemporary cultural identity debates, Williams emphasized, “We’re expressing ourselves from a place of love, no judgment. Just think about telling your story and telling your people’s story as best you can and doing it candidly and with love—that’s the overwhelming feeling.”

The craftsmanship showcased by the studio and artisan teams under Williams’s direction was exceptional. Lace shirts featured embroidery depicting lasso-throwing cowboys, while denim jackets showcased yellow desert flowers. Leather or denim chaps, possibly a first for the house, were adorned with saddlery patterns or fringed and flowered. Suiting, including the signature collarless Pont Neuf jacket, and denim were riveted with turquoise and also incorporated into belts, collar tips, bolos, jewelry, and bags.

The collection covered a wide timespan, incorporating items reminiscent of cinematic or performance cowboy costumes, such as a flame-red leather rancher suit with a lasso and a black leather blouson adorned with Las Vegas-style Western signage. Workwear selections included double-fronted work pants riveted with turquoise in croc print nubuck and a cotton duck chore jacket printed with cowboys. Collaborations with Timberland, including a limited-edition LV-made version of the iconic boot, added a contemporary edge to the show.

While the collection showcased exceptional industry and creativity, the narrative it aimed to convey felt somewhat imprecise. Nevertheless, the show indirectly brought forth stories of overlooked Black protagonists in America’s complex history, leaving a lasting impression that Williams’s LV journey through America is far from over.

BY LUKE LEITCH

COLLECTION

credit – LV | Vouge

2023 COLLECTION KIM JONES

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