Dunhill Spring 2025 Menswear

Simon Holloway exuded a “quietly confident” vibe the day before unveiling his second collection for Dunhill Spring 2025 Menswear. Set in a charming Milanese garden on Sunday afternoon, Holloway’s designs reflect his deepening connection to his role, which he has held for just over a year. The 52-year-old designer has shifted away from the avant-garde approach of his predecessor, Mark Weston, opting instead for what he calls “radical classicism.”

“This collection is essentially a refined continuation of our fall lineup, embodying a quintessentially English wardrobe,” Holloway explained. Drawing inspiration from Dunhill’s rich archive, which originally focused on sports tailoring during the early days of motoring, the collection featured luxurious butterscotch suede car coats and rich chocolate brown leather jackets. The lineup also included sharp yet airy tropical wool suits in cloud-like hues, charming tennis outfits complete with leather racket cases, and a series of pristine tuxedos fit for a wedding cake topper.

Holloway, a British designer with a diverse background including stints at Chloé in Paris, Agnona in Milan, and Ralph Lauren and Hogan in New York, seems perfectly at ease with Dunhill’s distinctively British style. One standout piece he highlighted was a re-edition of a walking cane with a lighter cleverly hidden in the handle. “For me, it’s about embracing British style and finding immense joy in it,” he said.

The timing appears ideal for Dunhill as there’s a growing desire in menswear for a return to elegant, classic clothing with structure and sophistication. Holloway has a talent for balancing tradition and modernity, avoiding the pitfalls of being overly stuffy or outdated. This collection felt fresh and cohesive, with a lightness that masked its meticulous craftsmanship, affirming Holloway’s suitability for the role.