Alexander Macqueen New Collection

Seán McGirr’s second runway collection for Alexander McQueen marked a pivotal moment in his journey as the new creative head of the iconic fashion house. Opening with a sharply tailored suit featuring lapels rolled together at the chest, the collection showcased McGirr’s ability to blend McQueen’s signature edge with a fresh, contemporary vision. After facing skepticism following his debut—where he stepped into the shoes of beloved designer Sarah Burton—McGirr’s sophomore effort had a lot riding on it.

This time, McGirr chose a more prestigious location, the École des Beaux-Arts, on the Left Bank of Paris, a departure from the more isolated venue of his first show. With more time to prepare, the collection was notably more cohesive and commercially appealing, indicating McGirr’s growing confidence in his role.

The designer drew heavily from the Alexander McQueen archives, looking at Lee McQueen’s original sketches, specifically focusing on the iconic “S-bend” silhouette. This led to the rolled lapel design that became a key element in the collection. He also reimagined McQueen’s controversial “bumster” trousers, offering a more refined take with mid-rise pants featuring a mesh panel just below the waistband, adding a subtle yet playful hint of skin.

McGirr’s use of military surplus materials in casual pieces like cropped jackets and kilted skirts, along with a washed cotton mac coat with a velvet collar, demonstrated his ability to blend the house’s rebellious spirit with wearability. The designer also found inspiration in McQueen’s Banshee collection, drawing on their shared Celtic heritage and the haunting, powerful spirit of the banshee. This influence was most evident in a stunning black dress embroidered with thorn motifs, recalling the dark romanticism that McQueen was known for.

There was a clear emphasis on red-carpet-worthy designs in this collection, an area where McGirr seems to excel. With fashion’s increasing reliance on celebrity endorsements, his focus on eveningwear is strategically smart. Pieces like a frayed lilac georgette party dress with silver bullion embroidery and a white chiffon mini dress paired with a gold sequined jacket stood out, but the true showstopper was a dress embroidered with silver chains that accentuated the body’s natural curves. It was bold, elegant, and quintessentially McQueen.

In just his second season, Seán McGirr is already making significant strides in defining his vision for Alexander McQueen, successfully blending the house’s storied history with a forward-thinking approach that appeals to both loyal McQueen fans and a new generation of fashion lovers.

Spring 2025 ready to wear